Ramblings - #4
Tulip In The Sun |
I’ve been there…I’ve done that…!
We are beginners; we are amateurs; we are professionals. We are ecstatic about our hobby; we are excited about our profession – and yet we feel we are creating images that do not inspire. We go into the field to shoot; we spend time in our make-shift or professional studios – the images are not what we expect or want them to be.
We ask the question, “What am I doing?” We create random images. They are good; they are not so good. I need this lens, I need that filter, I need this software – in order to make my images dynamic and give them the quality I anticipate, but never seem to achieve.
If these and similar thoughts are occupying your time, you are suffering from “The Aimless Photographer Syndrome.”
Now, this condition should be of no concern to you, if you simply enjoy the random act of photography. Oh, what a pleasure it is to capture a candid portrait, an occasional landscape, an unusual barn in the countryside, a family gathering or sports event…! If that is the case, this writing is not for you.
But, if you want to improve and upgrade from “hobby” to “more serious,” if you are already “serious” but want to achieve a more “professional” level, perhaps this Rambling will get you on the right track to improve your hobby or desired photography profession. Photography “Slumps” come and go, “Aimlessness” seems to linger. But here is a potential process to dramatically improve your photography, both from a technical standpoint and subject expertise.
Let’s first identify the symptoms of “Aimless.”
1. You have an interest in “many” genres of photography – perhaps a dozen…
2. You conclude you struggle with image composition…
3. Your images do not have “punch” and do not inspire you or your viewers…
4. You look at advanced amateur or professional photographs and say “Wow, why can’t I do that…?”
The list can go on and on, but the syndrome needs solutions. So here goes…This is what I do and have done to meet successful career requirements and accomplishments. These steps are applicable to any genre or interest of photography – be it landscape, portrait, flora, sports, advertising, et al.
1. Focus on one or two specific interests at a time – barns and flora, for example. You can only become “great” or at least very good, if you learn everything you can about the details of a specific genre…
2. Literally, look at / study hundreds (if not thousands) of images produced by highly skilled or professional photographers you admire…
3. What equipment do they use? Don’t get discouraged – use what you have, purchase only what is within your budget. Many of the world’s best images were taken with simple, manual cameras and a single 50mm lens…
4. Discover what filters are needed (in landscapes, for example) to gain the quality you desire…
5. Discover what lighting you need (in portrait or flora photography, for example)…
6. Ascertain the photographer’s perspective. What angle was the image shot from – what height, what angle, what proximity, what eye level…?
7. Emulate and copy your favorite photographer(s), until you can achieve the level you want…
8. Stick with a specific genre of interest for up to a period of one year, or until you feel you have mastered the level of quality and consistency you desire – exposure, depth-of-field, image sharpness, composition, lighting, perspective…
9. Move on only if you have achieved a level of excellence and, when viewers see your images, their outcry is “Wow!”
Achieving a level of “mastery” comes only with time and practice. Photographing 20 or 30 genres of photography will only produce mediocre at best and poor most likely.
To become a true craftsman, conquer a single genre at a time, and only then move on. Become a “Directional” photographer.
The above image was taken with the tulip laying on a dark, wooden coffee table, with natural sunlight. No Photoshop manipulation, except a slight sharpening required of all digital images.
Camera: Nikon D1x, Lens: Nikon AF-S Nikkor17-55mm 2.8G ED-DX, Filter: None, Lighting: Natural, Background: Dark Table, Holding Method: On Tripod, Mirror Lock: Up, ISO: 400, Shutter Speed: 1/8 Sec, f/Stop: 5.6, Focal Length: 55mm, Aspect Ratio: Square.
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2 comments:
This might be a dumb question, but why did you use ISO 400 if you were on a tripod and your shutter speed was going to be slow anyway? Why not go with ISO 100 or 200?
Aha, you’re awake…! Excellent question; and my reasoning is – I have none.
The truth is that I shoot most general images at 400 ISO. It’s a left over habit from my wedding days, when I was shooting approximately 85,000+ images during the season and needed a flexible range of light control on the fly with an almost fixed, “low” shutter speed of 1/125 to stop most human motion. In order to open and close exposure, I manipulated the f/Stop at supersonic speeds and maximum diffusion for a scene was always my goal.
To adress your question, that’s a fancy way of saying I’m getting lazy…!
This image was not a critical piece, attempt at art or critical commercial work. When I do “serious” digital photography I always shoot at ISO 100 (the "Base" and lowest setting- with film I always opt for ASA 50-64) and slow shutter speeds for best color capture.
Also, although the Nikon lens I used is a very pricey and high quality lens, it was set at the maximum focal length of 55mm, because I didn’t want to re-adjust the tripod – that is an absolute no/no with any lens (neither maximum nor minimum, due to lens barrel / pin cushion introductions)…!
For this DX lens, the best focal length and f/Stop are approximately fL-35mm (about 52mm full-frame) and f/6.3 for minimum distortion and maximum image sharpness. But again, this image was not critical, just a quick fun shot with the light coming in through the balcony doors.
Your question points in the right direction, however. For serious work:
1. Use your camera’s “Base” ISO – over or under will increase noise artifacts...
2. Never use minimum or maximum focal lengths with any zoom lens – to minimize normal pin & barrel distortions...
3. Use a particular lens’s ideal f/Stop for best sharpness – this has to be determined for each lens / camera body combination.
Hope that answers your question. Sorry for being long-winded.
Christoph
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